Advice for DD Players
Aug 4, 2013 22:55:04 GMT -6
scottenkainen, Hans E Magnusson, and 13 more like this
Post by waysoftheearth on Aug 4, 2013 22:55:04 GMT -6
A while ago I invited a group of regular 4E players to try DD/OD&D. We had one of those conversations about the pros and cons of different games, but alas we didn't end up gaming (yet!). However, it did motivate me to draft a little essay for them about what an OD&D/DD player gets up to.
That done, I realised it might be worthwhile sharing it with the readership here. I'm planning to (eventually) add some advice for referees too, but in the meanwhile this is what I've got so far...
Enjoy!
How to Play Delving Deeper
Delving Deeper emulates the earliest version of the original fantasy role playing game. That means:
. It's run by the referee's rulings, not by "the rules",
. It's about in game player strategy, not about character builds,
. It's about discovering along the way, not pre-determining everything up front.
Players
As with most role-playing games, the first thing a player needs to do is to invent a character.
Ability Scores
The primary purpose of the six ability scores is to describe your character.
The ability scores are not generally about "plusses" as they tend to be in later iterations of the game. In Delving Deeper low ability scores occur exactly as frequently as do high scores, so you might find yourself with lower scores than you're accustomed to. You may get a couple of "+1"s to scribble down if you happen to roll lucky, but just as often you won't. Don't sweat it if this happens.
What a lucky high ability score will do for you, however, is adjust earned experience points. So a high prime requisite ability score will enable you to advance faster in a particular class. This advantage may influence your choice of class, but it doesn't have to.
What do the Scores Mean?
Your very first job as a player is to "read" your ability scores. Don't worry overly if your rolls aren't great -- most rolls are not. It's what you make of the rolls that matters, not what they are. Here's a few ideas to get you thinking...
Strength
High: big, thick-necked, descended from Giants, Sampson's hair...
Low: halfling, maiden, boy, invalid...
Intelligence
High: schooled, witty, possessed by all-knowing spirit, genius...
Low: village idiot, head injury, goat polymorphed into man...
Wisdom
High: old, worldly, sensible, photographic memory, visions...
Low: young, reckless, amnesia, foolish, oblivious...
Dexterity
High: dancer, acrobat, faerie-blood, nimble...
Low: clumsy, the shakes, short-sighted, arthritic, peg leg...
Constitution
High: tough as nails, fit, corpulent, energetic...
Low: hypochondriac, child, old-timer, sick, lazy...
Charisma
High: charming, influential, gorgeous, gift of the gab...
Low: grim, mean, alcoholic, tongue-tied, stutter, spits, flatulent...
Take a look at your highest and lowest scores in particular, and think about what kind of character could possess such scores. It's your explanation of who this character is that will make him/her unique, memorable, and fun.
Class
Having appraised your ability scores and begun to ponder who your character is, your next choice is what class to play.
Choice of class is your Big Shot. It's how you say "This guy will be best at... this!"
There are no minimum ability score requirements for any class in Delving Deeper, so your options are wide open. You may want to take advantage of a lucky ability roll, but you should also think about how you want to play, and choose your class accordingly.
Fighters are the best class in combat, so if you want to go toe-to-toe with the enemy, choose a fighter. Magic-users are the best class for spell slinging, so if you want to do impossible, improbable, magical stuff, choose a magic-user. Clerics are the best against undead so if you want to be a zombie slayer or a vampire hunter, choose a cleric. Thieves (if these are used) are the best at sneaking and spying so if you want to be on recon duty and all things trickery, choose a thief.
Race
You also get to choose a race.
Non-human characters can be dual-classed without impediment. This might be a motivation to choose a non-human if you want to play a dual-classed fighter/magic-user, fighter/thief, or magic-user/thief. Clerics are usually human only, and magic-user/clerics are not normally allowed.
However, the principal consideration in race selection is that humans are unlimited insofar as how many experience levels they can advance, but do not have the additional benefits of the elves, dwarfs, and halflings.
Elves are especially deadly magical weapons and bows. Halflings and elves can be as quiet as a mouse. Dwarfs ignore one-half of damage caused by giant-sized enemies and can see by night.
However, elves are limited to 4th level as fighters and 8th level as magic-users, Dwarfs are limited to 6th level as fighters, and halflings are limited to 4th level as fighters. Other non-human races will have similar restrictions.
Humans are usually a good, balanced choice.
Alignment
Finally, you'll choose an alignment. There are three options -- lawful, neutral, or chaotic. But why choose one over another?
Why choose lawful?
. Lawful characters are "the good guys".
. The majority of mythic magical swords are usable by lawfuls only.
. Lawfuls will be welcome and safe in lawful towns and villages.
. Lawfuls know the lawful tongue, and speaking lawful will identify a characters as an ally of any lawful temple, stronghold, or house.
. Lawfuls can expect improved loyalty from lawful hirelings.
. Lawfuls can reasonably expect to share and share in resources with other lawfuls.
. Lawfuls can expect an equal share of any treasure won by a lawful group working together.
. In the event of his untimely demise, a lawful can rightfully expect a proper burial, and his estate to be lawfully inherited by his next of kin.
Why choose neutral?
. Neutral characters morally ambiguous; they're basically out for themselves.
. Neutrals can get along passably with both lawfuls and chaotics, when it suits them.
. Neutrals know the neutral tongue, which is useful for conversing with many of the morally ambiguous types in the wider world.
. Neutrals have no problem with others shouldering the major risks, if they're willing.
. Neutrals have no problem with pocketing more than an equal share of any treasure won (what the others don't know won't hurt them),
. Neutrals have no problem with the notion that it's "every man for himself!",
. In the event of an ally's untimely demise, a neutral has no problem "borrowing" from the estate that which should lawfully be inherited by the next of kin.
Why choose chaotic?
. Chaotic characters are "the bad guys".
. Chaotics can (and should!) go out of their way to inconvenience or undermine the forces of law.
. Chaotics know the chaotic tongue, which is useful for conversing with many of the bad guys in the wider world. However, speaking chaotic will identify a character as an enemy of any lawful temple, stronghold, or house.
. Chaotics can hire orc mercenaries at half the cost of men.
. Chaotic clerical-types can employ the reverse clerical spells with impunity.
. Chaotics should have no moral problem with firing missiles into melee.
. Chaotics can (and should!) scheme to betray their associates and take their stuff.
. Chaotics can (and should!) take the first, and greatest pick of any treasure won.
. In the event of a "so called" ally's untimely demise, a chaotic should subvert the lawful inheritance of the estate by the next of kin.
Adventuring
The first thing players should know is that dungeoneering is deadly. Survival is by no means guaranteed.
Challenges are what they are, for better or worse. They are not always "beatable" or appropriate for the players, but they are usually appropriate for the dungeon level they're found on.
Players should, therefore, conduct their exploration on a dungeon level appropriate to the risks they can reasonably handle, but should always be wary of tougher challenges -- they happen. And always remember that running is a legitimate strategy!
Advice for All Players
You will almost certainly need a light source as many adventures take place in dark, underground places -- even Dwarfs can't see in pitch darkness. Half a dozen torches and a tinderbox will run to 3 gp so there's absolutely no reason to set off without these.
Crowbars, spades, ropes, iron spikes, mirrors, poles and so on are all invaluable assets in the dungeon too. You may not be able to afford (or carry!) all this yourself, but it should be possible to have all these items among the membership of a well organized group. Lawfuls, in particular, can coordinate in this way.
In the dungeon, much of your time will be spent exploring and, if you're smart, avoiding unprofitable combat. It is well worth your while to consider how you're going to avoid combat, and come prepared. Food and burning oil can waylay unintelligent monsters, so carry some. Treasure can be used to bargain with intelligent monsters, so carry some. If you can't afford any "real" treasure (and many first level characters can't) then get yourself a curio of some sort; a flute, a pocket watch, a smoking pipe and tobacco, a deck of cards... Anything that might be desirable to you might also be desirable to an intelligent monster.
Hired help can also be invaluable. Guides, torch bearers, porters, heralds and so on all have their worth... and then there are also fighting mercenaries. The basest sell-swords will serve you for a mere 4 gp plus meals. A player could do far worse with 24 gp than to take on six armed guards. Each will, of course, desire a share in any treasure found, but if you're dividing treasure you've succeeded -- well done!
However, if every player is scouring the town for mercenaries at the same time demand may exceed supply and prices may be inflated, so have just a few players do the hiring. Mercenary loyalty will eventually be tested so lawfuls in particular should consider pooling their resources and allowing the player with the best charisma to tackle the job. Mercenaries will report directly to whomever hires them, so it might also be best if this player is a fighter.
And lastly it may pay dividends to plan for the worst right from the start. Just as in real life it is a good idea to tell someone (in game) where you're going before you set off, or at least when you're expected back. That way someone may notice if you're overdue, and possibly send out a search party. You should name an heir in case you don't make it back alive -- particularly if you're a lawful sort -- so your next character can inherit whatever wealth you may leave behind, or is returned with the body.
Advice for Fighters
Fighters are certainly the best class in combat, but that doesn't make combat any less deadly. The smart fighters will pick their fights, only entering battle when they have the upper hand. Being on the losing side will get you killed, after all.
As far as weaponry goes, fighters have the advantage of missile weapons and spears and it would be remiss of you not to employ both.
Missile weapons have the obvious advantage of range, as well as the less obvious attack adjustments (+2 to hit at short range, which will be nearly all indoor shooting). If you roll an unlucky purse and are short on coin, you can still get a sling for just 1 gp and find some likely stones for bullets at no cost.
Spears cost only 5 gp and have numerous advantages. They can be used to prod things from out of reach. They can be hurled as missiles. They deal 2-12 damage when set against a charging enemy. And three spearmen can fight abreast in a defensive line across a 10ft wide passage. The humble spear probably is the most versatile weapon in a fighter's armory.
When the hack and slash begins having the best armor available is imperative. For waterborne action leather armor may be preferable in order to minimize the risk of drowning, but otherwise you should always take advantage of the fighter's cheap starting armor and buy plate armor and shield. One hit in six is a head hit, so a helmet is advisable too.
As a fighter, you're expected to lead the troops. If you know you're heading right into some serious fighting (as opposed to exploring the unknown) you should bring as many mercenary fighters as you can find (and afford). You'll be thankful for every one of them if you happen to run up against 160 Orcs.
The fighter's main job is to manage the fighting, whether leading the charge personally, or orchestrating it from behind the battle line. Either way, combat is deadly so it always pays to plan to survive. Combat is a tactical puzzle with numerous solutions. You should always have a plan and it should probably include a contingency. You'll do well to establish a defensible position to fall back to. Surprise your enemy if at all possible. Aim to take the high ground. Maximize your opportunity to employ missile fire and spears. If you're outnumbered, you'll be better off fighting them at choke points. If you outnumber them, you can consider a flanking move in order to surround them. Form a battle line to protect the wounded. Have a second rank ready to step up when the front rank are injured or killed. Even a rudimentry plan is better than no plan at all!
Don't forget that intelligent enemies can be subdued rather than killed. This can shorten combat (reducing your exposure to risk) as well as swell your ranks rather than diminishing them. Even if you ignore subdual, enemy morale failure is the least hazardous route to victory so your principal goal should be to force the enemy to make morale checks as early and as frequently as possible.
It's also worth remembering that 6 is the number of hit points a typical hit can cause, so if you're down to 6 or fewer hit points you could die on the next hit. If you're down to 1 hit point you will die on the next hit. Ideally you should retire and let someone with more than 6 hit points take up the slack.
Of course melee combat is rarely ideal so you might find yourself risking a hit that could kill you. At that point survival is a matter of luck rather than strategy. You might get lucky and live, but if not, pause to reflect on why you got killed (was it really just an "unlucky" roll? What could you have done differently to avoid that roll all together?).
Advice for Magic-Users
Dungeoneering magic-users are generally not "field artillery". While they can employ offensive spells (including some very powerful ones) these are typically indiscriminate and of limited use in a confined dungeon or melee situation. Magic-users are more typically diviners, problem solvers, tricksters, and "game changers".
A magic-user is meant to use magic but alas, a 1st level magic-user can memorize just a single spell. He can, however, also cast any number of spells from spell scrolls (and--should the referee allow it--possibly from spell books too). Not only this, even at 1st level a magic-user can read spell scrolls of any spell level.
A magic-user doesn't need much in the way of starting equipment, so he will likely have gold available to buy one, or possibly more, spell scrolls. He should purchase as many of these as his starting purse (and the referee) will allow. If none are affordable, he should instead consider hiring body guards or other hirelings to protect him.
As mentioned previously, adventuring can be deadly. There's every chance that your first adventure will be your last, so you should utilise every recourse to win through. Use every spell at your disposal! Should the referee allow it cast spells directly from your spell book too. Access to a few extra spells could easily be the difference between success and failure. Should your venture be a success you'll be able to replace used spells with your earnings.
Always have other characters go ahead of and behind you. The fighters are better able to handle any nasty surprises that might popup, and moreover, you won't be able to use your magic once you're toe-to-toe with the bad guys. Your best position is far enough from the action to stay out of it, but near enough to respond to it.
When hostilities do break out you can be a formidable foe. Your offensive magic can be decisive but you should bear in mind that area effect spells can cause as much harm to your allies as to your enemies if you're not careful. However, you can be equally effective without resorting to the blunt force of fireball and its like. You can impede the enemy, deceive the enemy, distract the enemy, cause them to check moral, or to outright join you, and more.
As a magic-user you are advised to avoid fighting at all costs. Your AC is terrible and you don't have a fighter's hit points, so even if the odds appear to be in your favor you're almost always better off running, hiding, bargaining, or surrendering than you are fighting. Moreover, once you're engaged in hand-to-hand combat you won't be able to use your magic, and that's a very unsatisfactory circumstance for a magic-user to find himself in.
Advice for Clerics
Your initial purchases are tricky because of your dual possibilities. With proper amour you can function as reasonable fighter, but with spell scrolls you can provide magical aid. Ideally you would be able to afford both, but realistically you'll begin play with around 100 gold pieces.
However, let's not forget your primary function! First and foremost you're a weapon against the undead so you should always carry a Cross and other "tools of the trade"; garlic, a mirror, stakes, and Holy water.
A wooden Cross will cost a mere 5 gp so get several of them. You never know when you might need to entrust one to a hireling or fellow adventurer, or fix one over a door or grave. The Church will note your zeal (and their profit margin) which won't hurt you either. Garlic and stakes are cheap, a mirror less so. If you can afford it, a flask of Holy water could be a very handy splash weapon against the undead. Or if you lack for coin, then fuel oil will do instead.
Next you need to think about whether to purchase spells scrolls or armor.
Spending your gold on armor is the straight forward option, but consider the rest of the group first. If there are already three or four reliable fighters in the group, you might be better off leaving the fighting to them and their mercenaries. Anyone can fight, but only a cleric turns undead and cast clerical scrolls. These are your top drawer options, so prepare yourself to use them.
Even if you roll a poor purse remember that a cleric begins play with a spell book, which is a valuable resource in its own right (see advice for magic-users). Remember also that most clerics will belong to an Order. You can have your cleric borrow (or beg) from, or become indebted to, The Order for spell scrolls before play begins. A cleric is an agent of The Order, after all, so anything they can do to help him is ultimately helping him achieve their ends.
Purchase (or otherwise obtain) as many spell scrolls as the referee will allow, and don't forget that even a 1st level cleric can cast spell scrolls of any spell level. Even just a single scroll will usually be a good investment -- possibly even the difference between being a spell casting character and not. If your referee doesn't give clerical spell books until 2nd level, or doesn't allow clerics to use them until 2nd level, and won't allow you any spells scrolls then that's a tough break. But at least you've learned something about your cleric's relationship with The Order and you have gold to spend on armor and hirelings instead.
If you've purchased scrolls or you rolled an unlucky purse, you may not be able to afford plate armor. In this case lesser armor and a shield will have to serve instead. Leather armor yields one pip of AC per 5 gp spent, mail armor yields one pip of AC per 10 gp spent, and a shield yields one pip of AC for 15 gp. Spend accordingly and take good note of your AC. If it is poor you might be best to avoid combat until you get better armor. If you rolled a really unlucky purse, remember that a staff is a perfectly functional weapon that costs only 2 gp.
Finally, you should consider hiring religious dervishes (if these are available) before regular mercenaries as these may serve for less and be more loyal so long as you continue to fuel their religious fervor.
Advice for Thieves (if these are used)
The sneaky character who none-the-less hits hard in combat is probably a fighter who likes to creep about. Thieves are proper spies and burglars who survive by cunning and caution, not by whacking stuff.
Thieves are not meant to fight. Thieves are meant to sneak and hide, to eavesdrop, to lure and ambush, to sabotage the equipment, to provide diversions, to poison the wine, to betray, deceive, blackmail, and so on. Ultimately a thief is there to get his hands on the loot, not to die in the fighting (that's what the fighters are for). In fact, thieves will do well to avoid fighting altogether unless success is virtually assured, and even then they should have an exit plan in case it all goes horribly wrong.
The thief is blessed in that his starting equipment is exceptionally cheap; a sling and a dagger will cost only 4 gp. Leather armor costs another 10 gp but the player should seriously consider whether the token protection it offers might encourage an ill-advised over confidence!
The thief will, however, want a bag of tricks to facilitate his role. Rope, grapple, string, marbles, lock picks, tinder, an ear cone, a mirror, a pouch of fine sand, chalk, a wax candle, iron spikes, and so on might all be useful.
Fuel oil and extra food are good for distracting pursuers, with the latter being especially potent if laced with wolvesbane (for animals) or belladonna (for man-types). Pre-prepared "bribes" can come in very handy too (a purse containing a month's pay for an mercenary armored footmen will cost 9 gp; an armored orc footman just 5 gp). These are all things which anyone could carry (if they had coin to spare) but which a thief should carry as a priority. He must be cautious not to overburden himself, however, which may be another motivation to leave the cumbersome leather armor behind.
Of all the classes, the thief is most likely to have loose gold to spend. He should use it to buy off every barkeep and snitch in town to learn what is happening hereabouts. There won't be more than a few taverns in any decent sized town, and 1-6 gp will loosen a barkeep's tongue. 20 gp for a few choice leads is a fair price indeed, but should that fail to turn anything up a big night at the tap room will cost the thief 10-60 gp and surely get local tongues wagging. Once again, anyone could do this but the other classes have higher priorities on their shopping lists. Besides, the thief player might want to hold back a few of the choicest details for himself...
That's all in theory, of course.
The practice is up to you
edit: removed some unnecessary bias.
That done, I realised it might be worthwhile sharing it with the readership here. I'm planning to (eventually) add some advice for referees too, but in the meanwhile this is what I've got so far...
Enjoy!
How to Play Delving Deeper
Delving Deeper emulates the earliest version of the original fantasy role playing game. That means:
. It's run by the referee's rulings, not by "the rules",
. It's about in game player strategy, not about character builds,
. It's about discovering along the way, not pre-determining everything up front.
Players
As with most role-playing games, the first thing a player needs to do is to invent a character.
Ability Scores
The primary purpose of the six ability scores is to describe your character.
The ability scores are not generally about "plusses" as they tend to be in later iterations of the game. In Delving Deeper low ability scores occur exactly as frequently as do high scores, so you might find yourself with lower scores than you're accustomed to. You may get a couple of "+1"s to scribble down if you happen to roll lucky, but just as often you won't. Don't sweat it if this happens.
What a lucky high ability score will do for you, however, is adjust earned experience points. So a high prime requisite ability score will enable you to advance faster in a particular class. This advantage may influence your choice of class, but it doesn't have to.
What do the Scores Mean?
Your very first job as a player is to "read" your ability scores. Don't worry overly if your rolls aren't great -- most rolls are not. It's what you make of the rolls that matters, not what they are. Here's a few ideas to get you thinking...
Strength
High: big, thick-necked, descended from Giants, Sampson's hair...
Low: halfling, maiden, boy, invalid...
Intelligence
High: schooled, witty, possessed by all-knowing spirit, genius...
Low: village idiot, head injury, goat polymorphed into man...
Wisdom
High: old, worldly, sensible, photographic memory, visions...
Low: young, reckless, amnesia, foolish, oblivious...
Dexterity
High: dancer, acrobat, faerie-blood, nimble...
Low: clumsy, the shakes, short-sighted, arthritic, peg leg...
Constitution
High: tough as nails, fit, corpulent, energetic...
Low: hypochondriac, child, old-timer, sick, lazy...
Charisma
High: charming, influential, gorgeous, gift of the gab...
Low: grim, mean, alcoholic, tongue-tied, stutter, spits, flatulent...
Take a look at your highest and lowest scores in particular, and think about what kind of character could possess such scores. It's your explanation of who this character is that will make him/her unique, memorable, and fun.
Class
Having appraised your ability scores and begun to ponder who your character is, your next choice is what class to play.
Choice of class is your Big Shot. It's how you say "This guy will be best at... this!"
There are no minimum ability score requirements for any class in Delving Deeper, so your options are wide open. You may want to take advantage of a lucky ability roll, but you should also think about how you want to play, and choose your class accordingly.
Fighters are the best class in combat, so if you want to go toe-to-toe with the enemy, choose a fighter. Magic-users are the best class for spell slinging, so if you want to do impossible, improbable, magical stuff, choose a magic-user. Clerics are the best against undead so if you want to be a zombie slayer or a vampire hunter, choose a cleric. Thieves (if these are used) are the best at sneaking and spying so if you want to be on recon duty and all things trickery, choose a thief.
Race
You also get to choose a race.
Non-human characters can be dual-classed without impediment. This might be a motivation to choose a non-human if you want to play a dual-classed fighter/magic-user, fighter/thief, or magic-user/thief. Clerics are usually human only, and magic-user/clerics are not normally allowed.
However, the principal consideration in race selection is that humans are unlimited insofar as how many experience levels they can advance, but do not have the additional benefits of the elves, dwarfs, and halflings.
Elves are especially deadly magical weapons and bows. Halflings and elves can be as quiet as a mouse. Dwarfs ignore one-half of damage caused by giant-sized enemies and can see by night.
However, elves are limited to 4th level as fighters and 8th level as magic-users, Dwarfs are limited to 6th level as fighters, and halflings are limited to 4th level as fighters. Other non-human races will have similar restrictions.
Humans are usually a good, balanced choice.
Alignment
Finally, you'll choose an alignment. There are three options -- lawful, neutral, or chaotic. But why choose one over another?
Why choose lawful?
. Lawful characters are "the good guys".
. The majority of mythic magical swords are usable by lawfuls only.
. Lawfuls will be welcome and safe in lawful towns and villages.
. Lawfuls know the lawful tongue, and speaking lawful will identify a characters as an ally of any lawful temple, stronghold, or house.
. Lawfuls can expect improved loyalty from lawful hirelings.
. Lawfuls can reasonably expect to share and share in resources with other lawfuls.
. Lawfuls can expect an equal share of any treasure won by a lawful group working together.
. In the event of his untimely demise, a lawful can rightfully expect a proper burial, and his estate to be lawfully inherited by his next of kin.
Why choose neutral?
. Neutral characters morally ambiguous; they're basically out for themselves.
. Neutrals can get along passably with both lawfuls and chaotics, when it suits them.
. Neutrals know the neutral tongue, which is useful for conversing with many of the morally ambiguous types in the wider world.
. Neutrals have no problem with others shouldering the major risks, if they're willing.
. Neutrals have no problem with pocketing more than an equal share of any treasure won (what the others don't know won't hurt them),
. Neutrals have no problem with the notion that it's "every man for himself!",
. In the event of an ally's untimely demise, a neutral has no problem "borrowing" from the estate that which should lawfully be inherited by the next of kin.
Why choose chaotic?
. Chaotic characters are "the bad guys".
. Chaotics can (and should!) go out of their way to inconvenience or undermine the forces of law.
. Chaotics know the chaotic tongue, which is useful for conversing with many of the bad guys in the wider world. However, speaking chaotic will identify a character as an enemy of any lawful temple, stronghold, or house.
. Chaotics can hire orc mercenaries at half the cost of men.
. Chaotic clerical-types can employ the reverse clerical spells with impunity.
. Chaotics should have no moral problem with firing missiles into melee.
. Chaotics can (and should!) scheme to betray their associates and take their stuff.
. Chaotics can (and should!) take the first, and greatest pick of any treasure won.
. In the event of a "so called" ally's untimely demise, a chaotic should subvert the lawful inheritance of the estate by the next of kin.
Adventuring
The first thing players should know is that dungeoneering is deadly. Survival is by no means guaranteed.
Challenges are what they are, for better or worse. They are not always "beatable" or appropriate for the players, but they are usually appropriate for the dungeon level they're found on.
Players should, therefore, conduct their exploration on a dungeon level appropriate to the risks they can reasonably handle, but should always be wary of tougher challenges -- they happen. And always remember that running is a legitimate strategy!
Advice for All Players
You will almost certainly need a light source as many adventures take place in dark, underground places -- even Dwarfs can't see in pitch darkness. Half a dozen torches and a tinderbox will run to 3 gp so there's absolutely no reason to set off without these.
Crowbars, spades, ropes, iron spikes, mirrors, poles and so on are all invaluable assets in the dungeon too. You may not be able to afford (or carry!) all this yourself, but it should be possible to have all these items among the membership of a well organized group. Lawfuls, in particular, can coordinate in this way.
In the dungeon, much of your time will be spent exploring and, if you're smart, avoiding unprofitable combat. It is well worth your while to consider how you're going to avoid combat, and come prepared. Food and burning oil can waylay unintelligent monsters, so carry some. Treasure can be used to bargain with intelligent monsters, so carry some. If you can't afford any "real" treasure (and many first level characters can't) then get yourself a curio of some sort; a flute, a pocket watch, a smoking pipe and tobacco, a deck of cards... Anything that might be desirable to you might also be desirable to an intelligent monster.
Hired help can also be invaluable. Guides, torch bearers, porters, heralds and so on all have their worth... and then there are also fighting mercenaries. The basest sell-swords will serve you for a mere 4 gp plus meals. A player could do far worse with 24 gp than to take on six armed guards. Each will, of course, desire a share in any treasure found, but if you're dividing treasure you've succeeded -- well done!
However, if every player is scouring the town for mercenaries at the same time demand may exceed supply and prices may be inflated, so have just a few players do the hiring. Mercenary loyalty will eventually be tested so lawfuls in particular should consider pooling their resources and allowing the player with the best charisma to tackle the job. Mercenaries will report directly to whomever hires them, so it might also be best if this player is a fighter.
And lastly it may pay dividends to plan for the worst right from the start. Just as in real life it is a good idea to tell someone (in game) where you're going before you set off, or at least when you're expected back. That way someone may notice if you're overdue, and possibly send out a search party. You should name an heir in case you don't make it back alive -- particularly if you're a lawful sort -- so your next character can inherit whatever wealth you may leave behind, or is returned with the body.
Advice for Fighters
Fighters are certainly the best class in combat, but that doesn't make combat any less deadly. The smart fighters will pick their fights, only entering battle when they have the upper hand. Being on the losing side will get you killed, after all.
As far as weaponry goes, fighters have the advantage of missile weapons and spears and it would be remiss of you not to employ both.
Missile weapons have the obvious advantage of range, as well as the less obvious attack adjustments (+2 to hit at short range, which will be nearly all indoor shooting). If you roll an unlucky purse and are short on coin, you can still get a sling for just 1 gp and find some likely stones for bullets at no cost.
Spears cost only 5 gp and have numerous advantages. They can be used to prod things from out of reach. They can be hurled as missiles. They deal 2-12 damage when set against a charging enemy. And three spearmen can fight abreast in a defensive line across a 10ft wide passage. The humble spear probably is the most versatile weapon in a fighter's armory.
When the hack and slash begins having the best armor available is imperative. For waterborne action leather armor may be preferable in order to minimize the risk of drowning, but otherwise you should always take advantage of the fighter's cheap starting armor and buy plate armor and shield. One hit in six is a head hit, so a helmet is advisable too.
As a fighter, you're expected to lead the troops. If you know you're heading right into some serious fighting (as opposed to exploring the unknown) you should bring as many mercenary fighters as you can find (and afford). You'll be thankful for every one of them if you happen to run up against 160 Orcs.
The fighter's main job is to manage the fighting, whether leading the charge personally, or orchestrating it from behind the battle line. Either way, combat is deadly so it always pays to plan to survive. Combat is a tactical puzzle with numerous solutions. You should always have a plan and it should probably include a contingency. You'll do well to establish a defensible position to fall back to. Surprise your enemy if at all possible. Aim to take the high ground. Maximize your opportunity to employ missile fire and spears. If you're outnumbered, you'll be better off fighting them at choke points. If you outnumber them, you can consider a flanking move in order to surround them. Form a battle line to protect the wounded. Have a second rank ready to step up when the front rank are injured or killed. Even a rudimentry plan is better than no plan at all!
Don't forget that intelligent enemies can be subdued rather than killed. This can shorten combat (reducing your exposure to risk) as well as swell your ranks rather than diminishing them. Even if you ignore subdual, enemy morale failure is the least hazardous route to victory so your principal goal should be to force the enemy to make morale checks as early and as frequently as possible.
It's also worth remembering that 6 is the number of hit points a typical hit can cause, so if you're down to 6 or fewer hit points you could die on the next hit. If you're down to 1 hit point you will die on the next hit. Ideally you should retire and let someone with more than 6 hit points take up the slack.
Of course melee combat is rarely ideal so you might find yourself risking a hit that could kill you. At that point survival is a matter of luck rather than strategy. You might get lucky and live, but if not, pause to reflect on why you got killed (was it really just an "unlucky" roll? What could you have done differently to avoid that roll all together?).
Advice for Magic-Users
Dungeoneering magic-users are generally not "field artillery". While they can employ offensive spells (including some very powerful ones) these are typically indiscriminate and of limited use in a confined dungeon or melee situation. Magic-users are more typically diviners, problem solvers, tricksters, and "game changers".
A magic-user is meant to use magic but alas, a 1st level magic-user can memorize just a single spell. He can, however, also cast any number of spells from spell scrolls (and--should the referee allow it--possibly from spell books too). Not only this, even at 1st level a magic-user can read spell scrolls of any spell level.
A magic-user doesn't need much in the way of starting equipment, so he will likely have gold available to buy one, or possibly more, spell scrolls. He should purchase as many of these as his starting purse (and the referee) will allow. If none are affordable, he should instead consider hiring body guards or other hirelings to protect him.
As mentioned previously, adventuring can be deadly. There's every chance that your first adventure will be your last, so you should utilise every recourse to win through. Use every spell at your disposal! Should the referee allow it cast spells directly from your spell book too. Access to a few extra spells could easily be the difference between success and failure. Should your venture be a success you'll be able to replace used spells with your earnings.
Always have other characters go ahead of and behind you. The fighters are better able to handle any nasty surprises that might popup, and moreover, you won't be able to use your magic once you're toe-to-toe with the bad guys. Your best position is far enough from the action to stay out of it, but near enough to respond to it.
When hostilities do break out you can be a formidable foe. Your offensive magic can be decisive but you should bear in mind that area effect spells can cause as much harm to your allies as to your enemies if you're not careful. However, you can be equally effective without resorting to the blunt force of fireball and its like. You can impede the enemy, deceive the enemy, distract the enemy, cause them to check moral, or to outright join you, and more.
As a magic-user you are advised to avoid fighting at all costs. Your AC is terrible and you don't have a fighter's hit points, so even if the odds appear to be in your favor you're almost always better off running, hiding, bargaining, or surrendering than you are fighting. Moreover, once you're engaged in hand-to-hand combat you won't be able to use your magic, and that's a very unsatisfactory circumstance for a magic-user to find himself in.
Advice for Clerics
Your initial purchases are tricky because of your dual possibilities. With proper amour you can function as reasonable fighter, but with spell scrolls you can provide magical aid. Ideally you would be able to afford both, but realistically you'll begin play with around 100 gold pieces.
However, let's not forget your primary function! First and foremost you're a weapon against the undead so you should always carry a Cross and other "tools of the trade"; garlic, a mirror, stakes, and Holy water.
A wooden Cross will cost a mere 5 gp so get several of them. You never know when you might need to entrust one to a hireling or fellow adventurer, or fix one over a door or grave. The Church will note your zeal (and their profit margin) which won't hurt you either. Garlic and stakes are cheap, a mirror less so. If you can afford it, a flask of Holy water could be a very handy splash weapon against the undead. Or if you lack for coin, then fuel oil will do instead.
Next you need to think about whether to purchase spells scrolls or armor.
Spending your gold on armor is the straight forward option, but consider the rest of the group first. If there are already three or four reliable fighters in the group, you might be better off leaving the fighting to them and their mercenaries. Anyone can fight, but only a cleric turns undead and cast clerical scrolls. These are your top drawer options, so prepare yourself to use them.
Even if you roll a poor purse remember that a cleric begins play with a spell book, which is a valuable resource in its own right (see advice for magic-users). Remember also that most clerics will belong to an Order. You can have your cleric borrow (or beg) from, or become indebted to, The Order for spell scrolls before play begins. A cleric is an agent of The Order, after all, so anything they can do to help him is ultimately helping him achieve their ends.
Purchase (or otherwise obtain) as many spell scrolls as the referee will allow, and don't forget that even a 1st level cleric can cast spell scrolls of any spell level. Even just a single scroll will usually be a good investment -- possibly even the difference between being a spell casting character and not. If your referee doesn't give clerical spell books until 2nd level, or doesn't allow clerics to use them until 2nd level, and won't allow you any spells scrolls then that's a tough break. But at least you've learned something about your cleric's relationship with The Order and you have gold to spend on armor and hirelings instead.
If you've purchased scrolls or you rolled an unlucky purse, you may not be able to afford plate armor. In this case lesser armor and a shield will have to serve instead. Leather armor yields one pip of AC per 5 gp spent, mail armor yields one pip of AC per 10 gp spent, and a shield yields one pip of AC for 15 gp. Spend accordingly and take good note of your AC. If it is poor you might be best to avoid combat until you get better armor. If you rolled a really unlucky purse, remember that a staff is a perfectly functional weapon that costs only 2 gp.
Finally, you should consider hiring religious dervishes (if these are available) before regular mercenaries as these may serve for less and be more loyal so long as you continue to fuel their religious fervor.
Advice for Thieves (if these are used)
The sneaky character who none-the-less hits hard in combat is probably a fighter who likes to creep about. Thieves are proper spies and burglars who survive by cunning and caution, not by whacking stuff.
Thieves are not meant to fight. Thieves are meant to sneak and hide, to eavesdrop, to lure and ambush, to sabotage the equipment, to provide diversions, to poison the wine, to betray, deceive, blackmail, and so on. Ultimately a thief is there to get his hands on the loot, not to die in the fighting (that's what the fighters are for). In fact, thieves will do well to avoid fighting altogether unless success is virtually assured, and even then they should have an exit plan in case it all goes horribly wrong.
The thief is blessed in that his starting equipment is exceptionally cheap; a sling and a dagger will cost only 4 gp. Leather armor costs another 10 gp but the player should seriously consider whether the token protection it offers might encourage an ill-advised over confidence!
The thief will, however, want a bag of tricks to facilitate his role. Rope, grapple, string, marbles, lock picks, tinder, an ear cone, a mirror, a pouch of fine sand, chalk, a wax candle, iron spikes, and so on might all be useful.
Fuel oil and extra food are good for distracting pursuers, with the latter being especially potent if laced with wolvesbane (for animals) or belladonna (for man-types). Pre-prepared "bribes" can come in very handy too (a purse containing a month's pay for an mercenary armored footmen will cost 9 gp; an armored orc footman just 5 gp). These are all things which anyone could carry (if they had coin to spare) but which a thief should carry as a priority. He must be cautious not to overburden himself, however, which may be another motivation to leave the cumbersome leather armor behind.
Of all the classes, the thief is most likely to have loose gold to spend. He should use it to buy off every barkeep and snitch in town to learn what is happening hereabouts. There won't be more than a few taverns in any decent sized town, and 1-6 gp will loosen a barkeep's tongue. 20 gp for a few choice leads is a fair price indeed, but should that fail to turn anything up a big night at the tap room will cost the thief 10-60 gp and surely get local tongues wagging. Once again, anyone could do this but the other classes have higher priorities on their shopping lists. Besides, the thief player might want to hold back a few of the choicest details for himself...
That's all in theory, of course.
The practice is up to you
edit: removed some unnecessary bias.